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Monday, May 19, 2014

A Market in Sicily

So I just came back from a 12 day food and wine tour of Sicily and I swear my head is still swimming from the sites and sounds. It is truly like stepping into a different world and the experience was Earth shattering. From a food perspective, I loved how fresh everything was.


 It was a challenge to find a grocery store as there were so many open air markets, neighborhood butchers or bakers or even just guys with carts selling fresh fish that came straight off the boat.


 I loved the pleasure and pride that everyone had in their food...the multi-course meals that were true productions of love. I loved the wine-it was light, it was smooth, it was simple and it did not give you a god awful hangover the next day. I loved the cheese and salami...layers of flavor, nice and salty and perfect in every way!


I loved the simplicity of the food, that really encapsulated the flavors of each ingredients. It wasn't about the latest and greatest food trends, it was about tradition, quality and cooking with love.

Love the old architecture of the buildings
One of our first food experiences of the trip occurred at the open air market in Palermo. I have been to some pretty amazing farmers markets between Santa Monica, Portland and Hollywood, however this market was insane...and I truly mean insane in every sense of the word. In my experience in the US, farmers markets are these zen experiences in which people talk softly, meander around and purchase ingredients at their leisure, often times carrying flowers and a latte to look more Bohemian. This market was nothing like that.


This market was a true food frenzy.


It was packed with people, however there were still motorcycles trying to drive up and down the aisles. I kept waiting for a herd of sheep to come through or something else crazy like that.

Every vendor was yelling...offering their products, bantering with the other vendors, haggling and just talking loud.


There was everything for sale. Sure there were the flower stands, vegetables and fruits, but there were also fish mongers, butchers, olive stands and every other food product you could think of. Plus in addition to the food products I swear there were several vendors just selling random stuff that screamed, "Made in China." Oh sure you need a Hello Kitty purse and some squid...you got it!!


I loved the sense of community that came with the market. The neighborhood ladies who would stop in the middle of the crowds and share gossip, exchange cooking tips and just talk about their days. I loved the fact that everyone knew each other and I loved that everyone was dressed in "going out" clothes as this was their outing for the day. I also loved that everyone bought the ingredients for that days meal and they weren't worried about a 7-day menu plan or stocking the fridge for the work week...refreshing!!

I loved the diversity of the ingredients. There was every type of product known to man-salami, fresh vegetables, live snails, eels...you name it!

Yup those are eels!
Live snails...they were tiny and I am not sure what you make with them...but cool.

Fresh oregano on the left and rosemary on the right


Sardines packed in salt...a very popular fish in Sicily

Fresh squid...some of which were still moving

Fresh huge tuna!
 I loved the history. Not only the food history, but also the history of the market and the history of the buildings and the history of the people. I loved wandering through the aisles of foods, knowing that these vendors had been on these same streets, selling to the same families for generations. I loved that everywhere I looked I found elements of a diverse history. Sicily is one of those places that truly had been taken over by everyone-Arabics, Greeks, Romans, etc and they all left their mark...on the buildings, in the food, in the traditions, in the acceptance of others. It was incredible!


 This trip really made me reflect on what is important and what we as Americans have forsaken as we chase the mighty dollar, the promotion and attempt to keep up with the joneses. I want to be able to shop for the day, cook a daily meal for those I love, take a siesta from 1-3 every day, spend 3 hours at the dinner table sharing stories with those that make you happy and cherish the pleasure in food, wine and life. Cheers!








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